For almost $4,000.00 that is, the Poulsen Hybrid is a Power Assist Unit that is hailed as a simple bolt on upgrade for standard gas-powered or diesel vehicles. The device has caused a stir and is raising eyebrows for the device simply has the old car retro-fitted with rear DC motors, controllers, on-board charger and storage batteries. The move has the standard vechicle running using electric motors for propulsion on level roads and as with hybrids, switching to the gaspowered engine during high demand conditions like going up hills or when the battery is going flat. The system works by switching to the electric motors after the car has reached a pre-set speed say the cruising speed you select, after which the gas engine halts operation leaving the maintenance of the pre-set speed to the electric motors that gets power from the batteries.
Safety experts are quite concerned at the overall look of the vechile with parts that protrudes from the rear wheels to the trunk but the best part about the idea that makes it interesting is the fact that you don’t need a totally new car to get onto the path to green motoring. New hybrids cost a lot of money and the approach of offering a bolt-on upgrade to save a bit of the gas pump is nice. One European car manufacturer has offered an enticing approch by selling the Think and not the batteries which are kept on lease to eliminate the problems associated with maintenance of batteries which are costly and quite hazardous to the environment. The approach to upgrade existing cars is more realistic that telling a company that has a large fleet of vehicles to simply get rid of all thier cars and get newer hybrids for them to go green. Other options are just not that enticing due to huge investments and often lacking infrastructure limiting their effective range (only certain major cities have support for LPG, LNG and Ethanol Powered Vechiles)

Written by Marcel on May 16, 2008 | Leave a Comment

The term describes a select group of driving aficionados who do out of this world driving (safely I hope) to squeeze every ounce of energy from every gallon of gasoline they have in their tanks. With gasoline hitting more than $3.00 a gallon, who wouldn’t? The trend has owners of hybrids and standard gas powered vehicles doing extreme driving practices such as trailing big-rigs (Tractor Trailers) to take advantage of their downdraft which creates suction in between the rig and your vehicle that you are actually pulled along by the rig in front of you. Another practice has people coasting as they are about to hit the stop light and many more. They have come up with unimaginable feats of getting up to or more that 100 MPG which is phenomenal with standard driving practices. Many have taken notice and many are turning into converts but many still question the safety of some of their practices or sometimes even the legality of doing such extreme maneuvers just to save every drop of gas.
They are a growing group that aims to educate people how they can lower their carbon footprints even while driving their cars. Many of these feats are possible only on hybrids but some nuts have been doing them in gas powered ones with equal results but I doubt that their lives should be placed on the line just to save on gas. Hybrids have a small gasoline engine that assists the electric motors during certain conditions that the computer can detect. Hybrids are designed or programmed to have the switching between gas and electric power under certain conditions to be automatic though most have switches that tells the car to stick with electric, gas or automatic propulsion. Hybrids have been getting reports of flat batteries and low charges due to these practices and doing some of these maneuvers on a gas powered vehicle can send you to the grave in no time due to braking power that is provided by the engine itself. It might be better to work with the designers of hybrids to have these changes to the way the car thinks included in the car’s computers rather than having to turn them off and do what you think is best for safety aspects are overlooked by some of these techniques and driving styles. And till they become standardized, I wouldn’t encourage drivers to do the same for as everybody does the same, who will you tail for everybody’s tailing everybody else, and all you’d end up with is a pile up of hybrids and trucks, you get the picture.
The drive to save on gasoline and thus lessen the dependency on oil is great. Global warming, high oil prices and many other environmental and man-made factors are having people take extreme measures just to save on gas. You might save every drop of it but endangering your life and the lives of others may not constitute such acts so do think twice about the implications.

Thanks to Mr. Luis Cruz for the suggestion!

Written by Marcel on May 4, 2008 | 1 Comment

Research into possible assistance by the car’s computers along with various sensors in aiding drivers when driving in bad weather is underway to make the roads safer. Funded by Veridan and Honda, the researchers at The University of Buffalo are working to perfect and prototype a system which would have some built-in reflexes into the car allowing it to assist the driver in case of a skid or slide. Many drivers still get into accidents when ice, rain and other weather impair the usual driving environment.
The system would involve the car’s computer which would have some pre-loaded reflex routines that tackle most driving situations, sensors that will be embedded in every part of the vehicle and active assist systems much like ABS assists you in maneuvers on slick roads. There is a required level of skill that is involved in order to recover from a spin such as which way to turn the wheel to counter the spin and how fast the driver has to turn it to effectively avoid disaster. The braking, engine, steering and many more parts of the car would assist the driver in making that critical split-second decisions on which way to turn the wheel and how much braking and engine power would be required. The parameters that would be built into these proposed systems are being tried out in simulators to obtain repeatable and standard results.
Researchers have found that the best and least invasive assistance technique can be achieved by audible warnings which allow the driver to keep his eyes on the road to allow better understanding of the situation. The new system would supplement but not totally take over the control of the vehicle for the best and fastest computer in the world is still the human brain which makes hundreds of thousands of calculations from visual cues and other sensory gathered information to allow the proper technique to be executed. The driver is still the most dangerous part of a motor vehicle for even with all the advanced technologies and safety systems that have been developed; the person is still the biggest threat to himself. Proper training and stimuli can help make a person more focused on his driving and lessen the accidents that have become more common on the streets of today.

Written by Marcel on April 7, 2008 | Leave a Comment

Got a request from one of our readers regarding how to drive over steep inclines especially when stuck in traffic. This is kinda’ tricky but with practice you can conquer these inclines with relative ease. First, try to get to know the vehicle you are driving; are the brakes in good condition, does the handbrake function properly? I ask this for they would come in handy with a nice trick that can save you from rolling down as you are stuck in traffic later.

Try to gauge the steepness of the incline that you are going to drive through. Anything more than 10 degrees can send you rolling backwards uncontrollably without fast reflexes. Try to test the effectiveness of the brakes by going up a few meters, stepping on the pedals and see if the car still rolls backwards ( Keep your hand on the handbrake so you can stop if you do end up rolling backwards). If you are climbing without any traffic problem, it would be relatively easy for the car’s momentum will tend to get you over (try shifting to lower gears so you get more traction. If you are stuck in traffic going up, here’s a nifty trick you can try.

As you stop and press the brakes, engage the handbrake (I’ll advise you to keep your foot on the pedal so if the handbrake gives, your foot on the brake pedal prevents you from crashing into the vehicle behind you.). When traffic starts to move, give the vehicle in front of you a few meters clearance, depress the clutch and set the stick into first gear. Try getting the exact instance between the clutch engaging and releasing so you are set to roll as you release the handbrake. As you slowly release the clutch you would hear the engine straining a bit from the clutch engaging. As the engine tries to propel the car forward (which would be quite impossible for the handbrake is still engaged) release the handbrake slowly as you depress the gas pedal to get more power to the wheels(not too fast or you end up rear-ending the car in front). You should then begin to lurch forward allowing you to resume driving up.

The steeper the incline, the harder it would be to do this driving technique. Going down the same incline, use the engine for additional braking power (the process is aptly called engine braking which is quite complicated but necessary for economic engine operation) by selecting lower gears (1st and 2nd ) which has lower gear ratios that stops the vehicle aiding the brakes in the stopping of your vehicle. Others tend to use the clutch as a method of preventing the car from going backwards, which is not only dangerous for you can stall the engine suddenly sending you into trouble (it is also a sure way to burn out your clutch sending you for costly repairs to the clutch system and even the transmission).

Note: If you think the angle of the climb is greater than what your brakes can handle; do not continue driving up for you might not have enough braking power to stop in the hanging position sending you crashing into the vehicle behind you. Stay at the bottom till there is enough distance for the engine to get enough power over the top. Keep your hands on the handbrake so you can get additional braking power in case you do stall. Still not convinced if you can do the routine, try it on a steep driveway or somewhere traffic isn’t so hard like the bridge in the park away from traffic.

Written by Marcel on February 13, 2008 | 2 Comments

You’re driving down the road and as you come upon a corner you sudenly realize the brakes aren’t doing any good and the vehicle continues going forward, what do you do?

This is a real-world scenario that causes many accidents year after year and as with many other car troubles, totally avoidable (most of the time that is, there is the 1% in the 99% reliability of your brakes that it can fail without any apparent reason). The key is maintenance, for if there has been sufficient maintenance on the vehicle meaning all safety and vital systems are inspected on a regular basis, there should not be any problems like this. Maintenance gives owners a chance to find problems as they begin as with brakes, yoi can see fluid from the brake system on the pavement or on the wheel rims. Hoses might be cracked or for the unfortunate few, that rock or piece of steel you ran over might have severed a brake line (actually hose) and your car is bleeding vital brake fluid needed to stop safely. Enough of the sermon and back to the point, What do you do?
First, any sign of trouble whe in a car, hit the flasher lights to tell everybody that something is wrong. Check the area in front of you if there are any vehicles in the way, if there are then you have to find spot to go to without hurting anybody else. If you are on open road like the interstate or highway, you can try pumping the brake which might give you some stopping power and use the hand brakes intermittently till you get to a full stop, ideally off the road on the shoulder. Using the handbrake is effective, but do it slowly for pulling hard can cause the rear tires to lock and spin you in many ways than one.
The point is, to keep you calm for panic causes you to loose your objectivity. Most modern cars have dual brake systems where the front driver’s side wheel and the rear pasenger’s side wheel are connected and so are the opposite two. You can brake (but you might have to push a bit harder on the pedal) even with one system down and use the handbrake to augment them. For some more important information check out the NSC fro more details
Keep safe, drive carefully and get home safe.

Written by Marcel on November 28, 2007 | 3 Comments

A couple of days ago, my place was hit by a tropical storm. Many areas of my city were flooded, so school and work were suspended for a while. I didn’t have to travel (as I hold office at home), but then I had to run some errands, so I had to go drive to get to places.

Thank goodness I didn’t have to wade through knee-deep flood waters. In these cases, it’s best to avoid travel at all. But just in case you find yourself stranded in the middle of a storm with rising waters, here’s what to do, based on some tips from Smart Driving UK.

Check the depth first. Generally, water that reaches to the center of your wheels is already asking for trouble. Not only will you let water seep into the car’s underside, there is also a chance of water entering the engine compartment. It’s best to estimate the depth first. If there are other cars ahead of you wading through the flood water, then that can be a good indicator of depth.

Beware road obstructions and hazards. Floodwaters will hide any obstruction or hazards on the road, like potholes, open manholes (if any), or even the curb. Be sure you know the road you’re traversing or you might hit something not visible.

Air is your engine’s friend. Fuel is only half of what powers an internal combustion engine. The other half is air. In diesels, air is compressed to a high temperature to ignite the fuel. In petrol engines, a spark plug does the ignition. So this means if your engine cannot “breathe” then you will stall.

Running through floodwaters, you should make sure that your engine does not lose air intake, and that water does not flood the engine. Water tends to enter the system through the exhaust pipe, or through the air intake/filter itself. So while traversing a flooded area, you should rev the engine so engine exhaust is forced out of the tailpipe. Driving a manual transmission, slip the clutch while revving the engine while at a stop.

Some 4×4s and off-roaders having air intakes located atop their roofs so the vehicle can “breathe in” air even with the engine submerged. You shouldn’t do this unless absolutely necessary, as your engine’s electrical system might be damaged by water.

Drive slow. Anything faster than a slow crawl will create “bow waves” in the floodwater, which could flow onto the oncoming lane or the curb, and could cause water to enter into your air intake. Driving fast through floodwaters might also soak any pedestrians on the curb, and is very inconsiderate.

Again, if you’re driving a stick-shift, be sure to rev your engine high while moving. You can do this by slipping the clutch while moving. When driving automatic, keep your gear to L or 1 or L1, depending on how it’s labeled on your selector (so you’re locked in first gear).

One car at a time. Flooded areas are best traversed one car at a time. This It’s also best to let oncoming traffic pass first, so if ever bow waves are created, these will not hit oncoming traffic.

Losing grip. In case your tyres lose their contact from the road, your car might already be floating. You can open a door to let water in, so your car is weighed down and tyres can get contact with the road again. This is a last resort, of course, as you will obviously ruin your car’s interior.

Check your brakes. Once you’ve passed the flooded area, you have to check your brakes–do this while driving slowly. Wet brake pads lead to inefficient braking, and you might lose braking power, so be sure to drive cautiously from this point.

Have your car checked. Be sure to check with your mechanic, in case your car sustains some damage from flood waters. This is especially so, if your car has been left standing in deep water. Water-logged cars are considered wrecks, and might be dangerous to drive, given that water damage compromises the structural integrity of a car, and might ruin electronics systems.

Written by J. Angelo Racoma on August 10, 2007 | 1 Comment

If you watched Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift, you’d know what I mean. Wikipedia defines powersliding and has several descriptive steps on how to execute a drift or powerslide:

Drifting refers either to a driving technique, or to a sport based on the technique; this article deals primarily with the sport. When the rear slip angle is greater than the front slip angle, and the front wheels are pointed in the opposite direction to the turn (e.g. car is turning left, wheels are pointed right), and the driver is controlling this, the car is drifting.

Powersliding is usually a technique used in racing to approach a corner at full power, instead of having to approach the corner from a wide angle and slowing down. This enables the driver to accelerate quickly after the turn. This technique is also used so the driver won’t have to slow down considerably in slippery roads (such as dirt roads).

Lifespy has some points and cites a video instruction on YouTube.

* Use the power to start the slide
* Let off the power to stop the tail from spinning
* Catch the slide with the opposite lock (oversteer)
* Reintroduce the power to continue the slide
* Be gentle with the controls

Don’t try this on your regular streets and with stock suspensions, wheels and tires! You might end up hurting yourself and/or your car. If you want to learn powersliding, it’s best to consult with a professional, and to try it on the racetrack or an open field.

Written by J. Angelo Racoma on February 6, 2007 | 1 Comment